What does the term D.O.P mean?

D.O.P. or P.D.O. [protected designation of origin] is an acronym that basically indicates a product's relationship to the geography where it was cultivated. There are several elements that make a product appropriate for certified protected status:

• the microclimate of the cultivation


• time-honored manufacturing methods


• high-quality raw materials


• cultural traditions


• authentically made in a specific EU region


• specific production methods

Let's take a look at a specific region in Italy : Umbria.

On the eastern side of Umbria lies the area known as Colli Assisi-Spoleto.

You might recall from history St. Francis Assisi, patron saint of animals and ecology, well this is where he is from.

Here is an actual story about a D.O.P olive oil. There is a family estate in Italy, located in Assisi-Spoleto Umbria, that has been farming since 1850, on land passed on from father to son for generations. Their olive groves extend along a large hillside area at an average altitude of 350 meters above sea level. Here is a photo of their farm : the farm of Emilio Bartolini.

WHY IS THE LABEL IS IMPORTANT ?

The labels aim to prevent "imitators" from passing for the genuine product.Each label varies in the strictness of regulations the products must meet, but the commonality lies in the goal of furthering authenticity and sustainability. Both PDO and PGI are directly linked to the geographical origin of the product,while TSG and Organic are connected to production methods.

PDO (PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN)PDO products are most closely linked to the concept of terroir — a sense of place discernible in the flavor of the food.PDO products must be produced, processed and prepared in a specific region using traditional production methods. The raw materials must also be from the defined area whose name the product bears. The quality or characteristics of the product must be due essentially or exclusively to its place or origin, i.e., climate, the nature of the soil and local know-how. Bartolini Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Umbria D.O.P.

PGI (PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION) PGI is slightly less stringent than PDO, but still demands that the product is produced in the geographical region whose name it bears. The geographical link must occur in at least one stage of production, processing or preparation. It is sufficient for only one of the stages of production to have taken place in the defined area;for instance, the raw materials may come from another region. This allows for a more flexible link to the region and can focus on a specific quality, reputation or other characteristic attributable to that geographical origin.

For an example of the label see Bartolini Extra Virgin Tuscano I.G.P.TSG (TRADITIONAL SPECIALTY GUARANTEED) The most lenient of the three is TSG. These products are linked to traditional production methods rather thanthe region in which they were made. They should be produced either from traditional materials or produced using traditional techniques.For more in-depth information on these 'Designations of Quality', including information about registration procedures, legal protection, inspection and food safety requirements, please click here.ORGANIC FARMING The EU Commission is committed to promoting organic farming and products. As consumers become more aware of food safety and environ-mental issues, the desire for organic products has grown. The increasing demand, coupled with the implementation of the 1992 EU rules on organic farming, has influenced tens of thousands of farms to convert to organic. For an example of the organic 'Designation of Quality Standard" label, see Bartolini Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil.In 2000, the European Commission introduced a protected designation with a logo bearing the words "Organic Farming" to be used on a voluntary basis by producers whose systems and products met the EU standards regarding organic production methods.The organic sector is drawing a large number of consumers who are willing to pay a premium for foods that have been produced with particular attention to protecting the environment, as well as those that address animal welfare. The EU is not the only area that has seen marked growth in organics. In the U.S., organic food and non-food sales grew significantly during recent years, to reach $10.8 billion, according to the Organic Trade Association's 2004 Manufacturer Survey.

Last Minute Holiday Reflections

Watching Letterman last night, with his guest Dustin Hoffman. Really funny stuff from Dustin about skiing after wiping out on a mogul and lying face down in the snow, " I realized I could be inthe same position is a chaise lounge in Hawaii." [Try going to colleges in Rochester NY and Buffalo NY like I did.]

Had just returned from making a donation [Gay Men's Health Crisis, The Tisch Building, 119 West 24 Street, New York, NY 10011, 212.367.1000] of Woodstock Water Buffalo Mozzarella Cheese to Chef Tyree, and had a pizza made with Umbrian olive oil, and the cheese in the oven...a blessed end to a busy day. Had the pizza with my son and watched the Simpsons.

On an impulse, I guess maybe the realization that there is on so much last minute shopping one can do, I ran out to get a Chrstmas gift for my boss . Single malt scotch was what I had in mind. It was a rough trip because used to spend many a night with my father staying up all night playing guitars and drinking scotch ... it brought back memories.

Found a great single malt called The Speyside, If you want to hear some great bagpipe music stop by the site....hope the boss enjoys the single malt.

worth a try if you happen to be in the mood...hope the boss likes it. So we are marching foward to the end of 2007 and the beginning of 2008 ... the last days of reflection and the setting of new goals...which we can do any day at anytime but somehow this is the time we all seem to be thinking about it.

What is Balsamic Vinegar?

A friend of mine recently asked...

"What is Balsamic Vinegar?...is it made from balsa wood?"

No, Balsamic vinegar is not made from balsa wood.

Rule number 1: REAL balsamic vinegar, worth being singled out as anything decent, is 'tradizionale' as the Italians call it, and from a specific region in Italy.

Rule number 2 : REAL balsamic vinegar is going to taste special and be pricey.

Rule number 3: Just because it is pricey doesn't mean that is good.

Let me tell you a story....

I went into what is touted as an 'upscale gourmet specialty retail chain in Manhattan NYC, "
and saw out for tasting /sampling a house brand private label N 12... or what they call a 12 year aged balsamic vinegar. It tasted like a commercial balsamic vinegar. The fact that it was 'private label' and the reputation of the brand connected with the company as bringing in high quality products made me think...

Is it possible that people don't really know enough about balsamic vinegar to make an informed decision? I guess so. It isn't like there is a standard that they could reference, and after all isn't it all just a matter of taste. So I asked around and was told that I should do a comparison and tasting of different aged balsamic to truly know the difference.

First, whether it is rated by leaves, or a "N" which means "minimum a years aged" do look for a rating. Also, look for country of origin : Modena produces the true balsamic vinegar that is D.O.P. certified , 'designated protected origin'.

So with that said if you do want a standard to reference , here is a suggestion of something worth trying...

I found a company that makes a high quality aged balsamic that is reasonably priced named Acetaia Bellei. Let me tell you their minimally aged line of 'La Villa' blew away the "Gourmet Store House Brand" and was half the price.

For the same price, I was able to get a N 5, which means aged 5 years or more, and again much better quality., better tasting. When I found a true , N12 , [ twelve years or more ] it was thick, like syrup, sweet, tangy, crisp, with a hint of vanilla and even nuttiness imparted from the aged oak barrel that it sat in for 12 o r more years... it was the Bellei 'Ampolla' .

But what has spoiled me is a product that is called , "Cherry Gold". Exclusively imported by Marco Polo Foods USA, it is a balsamic vinegar that is N 20 , [twenty years or more], and aged in a cherrywood cask, that is amazing. It is so spectacular that people, including myself, have savored it on vanilla ice cream to enjoy the spectrum of tastes that can delight the taste buds.


Very disappointed, I decided that I had to start posting something about balsamic vinegar. Ok so here goes...

EVERYTHING THAT YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT
BALSAMIC VINEGAR... BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK.


Real balsamic vinegar begins with the must (fresh grape juice) of the local grapes-white Trebbiano is the most widely used variety, but some blend in white Spergola and Occhio di Gatta, red Lambrusco and/or Berzemino grapes. Each vinegar maker has his or her own blend. One of the "secrets" of balsamic's sweetness is that the grapes are left on the vine as long as possible, in order to bring the level of natural sugars high. When the grapes are harvested, some look like raisins hanging off the vines in the autumn sun.



Since it is made from must, not wine, Aceto Balsamico is not strictly a "wine vinegar". After pressing, the fresh must is brought to the acetaia, poured into open copper kettles, then cooked down until it is noticeable thicker than wine, but still thinner than maple syrup. The reduced must is is shifted into wooden barrels for aging: each vinegar maker using his own mix of woods including oak, cherry, mulberry,chestnut and juniper. Just as barrel-aging develops the flavor and identity of a fine wine, each of these woods contributes its character to the flavor of the vinegar.



After 12 years of aging, each batch of vinegar is taste tested by a panel of experts from the Consorzio, the body that oversees and monitors production and ensures standards of quality. Only the vinegars on which the panel bestows its seal of approval qualify as authentic Aceto Balsamico. In Reggio -Emilia these are broken into three classes. The highest grade, the best of the vinegars is gold label , the next becomes silver label, the rest red label. In Modena, a comparable system is used, dividing the vinegars into tow classes, labeled merely 1 and 2, for "Red Cap for 10 years "of aging and "Gold Cap for 25 years". Through out its life, which might be decades or even centuries, the vinegar will retain its color coded classification.



Italians refer to real balsamic vinegar as tradizionale, in contrast to the industriale, or industrial vinegar on supermarket shelves, or even as pricey private label specialty store brands. True balsamic vinegar is never , ever going to be cheap: it is one of those things that is always very expensive.

Talking Truffles :Better Than Sex

Truffle season is upon us. Release the hounds, (and pigs) . Hearing great things about a truffle farm in the area of Italy known as Umbria. Up in the hills between Assisi and Spoleto is Athenor "La Madia." I was at Zabars up on 80th Street in Manhattan a few weeks back, and people were really getting into it at the truffle demonstration. They were devouring truffle cream, truffle sauce, and dipping into truffle oil. There was also a new product Trufella, (black truffles with cocoa and chocolate nibs).

So what's the deal about "better than sex"? Ok I'll admit it - there is nothing better than actual sex for me, but then my experience is limited. When it comes to food, and you are talking to chef, can you say anything about truffles EXCEPT that the dish just prepared is better than sex?

What is Extra Virgin Olive Oil?

I started to write about the history of olive oil, and the process of selection of olives and cold pressing , and what makes "extra virgin, first pressed, cold pressed, olive oil from name-your-country-of-origin", then I read Tom Muellers' Letter from Italy "Slippery Business."

So rather than launch into a "History of Olive Oil", or , "The Science of Olive Oil" I just decided that for now to pass along few basic tips when buying the only kind of olive oil worth putting into your body... extra virgin olive oil.

1. Time is an enemy of olive oil. Olive oil begins losing quality as soon as the oil is pressed from the olive. When you buy olive oil , LOOK FOR THE DATE of manufacture. Buy only oil that is a year to eighteen months old if that. Since olive oil is harvested every year, this is entirely possible and is encouraged.
2. Light is an enemy of olive oil. When exposed to light, olive oil begins losing its quality so it should not be stored in : clear bottles in the window sill or in the sunshine, and really when buying ...it should be in a dark green or amber bottle. However, most olive oils that you see in the store that are not of particularly high quality will be packed in clear bottles to show you their "light color" to insinuate a "light oil".
3. Light is an enemy of olive oil. Once a bottle of olive oil is opened it needs to be used. The air inside the bottle will aid in the breakdown of the oil.

There are other things to know, and we will get back to you with more info, but that is all that we have time for today.

Seeds of Thought

In this moment, I am thinking about the balance between luxury food items, also known as gourmet food, and the reality of the number of people that are starving in the world. This was all totally unexpected as my background in tv, radio, journalism,art, media, music, film, marketing and sales would never have suggested that I would wind up being concerned about gourmet food in the slighest. As usual, once I did the basic research, I discovered there was a story to be told.