What is Balsamic Vinegar?

A friend of mine recently asked...

"What is Balsamic Vinegar?...is it made from balsa wood?"

No, Balsamic vinegar is not made from balsa wood.

Rule number 1: REAL balsamic vinegar, worth being singled out as anything decent, is 'tradizionale' as the Italians call it, and from a specific region in Italy.

Rule number 2 : REAL balsamic vinegar is going to taste special and be pricey.

Rule number 3: Just because it is pricey doesn't mean that is good.

Let me tell you a story....

I went into what is touted as an 'upscale gourmet specialty retail chain in Manhattan NYC, "
and saw out for tasting /sampling a house brand private label N 12... or what they call a 12 year aged balsamic vinegar. It tasted like a commercial balsamic vinegar. The fact that it was 'private label' and the reputation of the brand connected with the company as bringing in high quality products made me think...

Is it possible that people don't really know enough about balsamic vinegar to make an informed decision? I guess so. It isn't like there is a standard that they could reference, and after all isn't it all just a matter of taste. So I asked around and was told that I should do a comparison and tasting of different aged balsamic to truly know the difference.

First, whether it is rated by leaves, or a "N" which means "minimum a years aged" do look for a rating. Also, look for country of origin : Modena produces the true balsamic vinegar that is D.O.P. certified , 'designated protected origin'.

So with that said if you do want a standard to reference , here is a suggestion of something worth trying...

I found a company that makes a high quality aged balsamic that is reasonably priced named Acetaia Bellei. Let me tell you their minimally aged line of 'La Villa' blew away the "Gourmet Store House Brand" and was half the price.

For the same price, I was able to get a N 5, which means aged 5 years or more, and again much better quality., better tasting. When I found a true , N12 , [ twelve years or more ] it was thick, like syrup, sweet, tangy, crisp, with a hint of vanilla and even nuttiness imparted from the aged oak barrel that it sat in for 12 o r more years... it was the Bellei 'Ampolla' .

But what has spoiled me is a product that is called , "Cherry Gold". Exclusively imported by Marco Polo Foods USA, it is a balsamic vinegar that is N 20 , [twenty years or more], and aged in a cherrywood cask, that is amazing. It is so spectacular that people, including myself, have savored it on vanilla ice cream to enjoy the spectrum of tastes that can delight the taste buds.


Very disappointed, I decided that I had to start posting something about balsamic vinegar. Ok so here goes...

EVERYTHING THAT YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT
BALSAMIC VINEGAR... BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK.


Real balsamic vinegar begins with the must (fresh grape juice) of the local grapes-white Trebbiano is the most widely used variety, but some blend in white Spergola and Occhio di Gatta, red Lambrusco and/or Berzemino grapes. Each vinegar maker has his or her own blend. One of the "secrets" of balsamic's sweetness is that the grapes are left on the vine as long as possible, in order to bring the level of natural sugars high. When the grapes are harvested, some look like raisins hanging off the vines in the autumn sun.



Since it is made from must, not wine, Aceto Balsamico is not strictly a "wine vinegar". After pressing, the fresh must is brought to the acetaia, poured into open copper kettles, then cooked down until it is noticeable thicker than wine, but still thinner than maple syrup. The reduced must is is shifted into wooden barrels for aging: each vinegar maker using his own mix of woods including oak, cherry, mulberry,chestnut and juniper. Just as barrel-aging develops the flavor and identity of a fine wine, each of these woods contributes its character to the flavor of the vinegar.



After 12 years of aging, each batch of vinegar is taste tested by a panel of experts from the Consorzio, the body that oversees and monitors production and ensures standards of quality. Only the vinegars on which the panel bestows its seal of approval qualify as authentic Aceto Balsamico. In Reggio -Emilia these are broken into three classes. The highest grade, the best of the vinegars is gold label , the next becomes silver label, the rest red label. In Modena, a comparable system is used, dividing the vinegars into tow classes, labeled merely 1 and 2, for "Red Cap for 10 years "of aging and "Gold Cap for 25 years". Through out its life, which might be decades or even centuries, the vinegar will retain its color coded classification.



Italians refer to real balsamic vinegar as tradizionale, in contrast to the industriale, or industrial vinegar on supermarket shelves, or even as pricey private label specialty store brands. True balsamic vinegar is never , ever going to be cheap: it is one of those things that is always very expensive.

Talking Truffles :Better Than Sex

Truffle season is upon us. Release the hounds, (and pigs) . Hearing great things about a truffle farm in the area of Italy known as Umbria. Up in the hills between Assisi and Spoleto is Athenor "La Madia." I was at Zabars up on 80th Street in Manhattan a few weeks back, and people were really getting into it at the truffle demonstration. They were devouring truffle cream, truffle sauce, and dipping into truffle oil. There was also a new product Trufella, (black truffles with cocoa and chocolate nibs).

So what's the deal about "better than sex"? Ok I'll admit it - there is nothing better than actual sex for me, but then my experience is limited. When it comes to food, and you are talking to chef, can you say anything about truffles EXCEPT that the dish just prepared is better than sex?

What is Extra Virgin Olive Oil?

I started to write about the history of olive oil, and the process of selection of olives and cold pressing , and what makes "extra virgin, first pressed, cold pressed, olive oil from name-your-country-of-origin", then I read Tom Muellers' Letter from Italy "Slippery Business."

So rather than launch into a "History of Olive Oil", or , "The Science of Olive Oil" I just decided that for now to pass along few basic tips when buying the only kind of olive oil worth putting into your body... extra virgin olive oil.

1. Time is an enemy of olive oil. Olive oil begins losing quality as soon as the oil is pressed from the olive. When you buy olive oil , LOOK FOR THE DATE of manufacture. Buy only oil that is a year to eighteen months old if that. Since olive oil is harvested every year, this is entirely possible and is encouraged.
2. Light is an enemy of olive oil. When exposed to light, olive oil begins losing its quality so it should not be stored in : clear bottles in the window sill or in the sunshine, and really when buying ...it should be in a dark green or amber bottle. However, most olive oils that you see in the store that are not of particularly high quality will be packed in clear bottles to show you their "light color" to insinuate a "light oil".
3. Light is an enemy of olive oil. Once a bottle of olive oil is opened it needs to be used. The air inside the bottle will aid in the breakdown of the oil.

There are other things to know, and we will get back to you with more info, but that is all that we have time for today.

Seeds of Thought

In this moment, I am thinking about the balance between luxury food items, also known as gourmet food, and the reality of the number of people that are starving in the world. This was all totally unexpected as my background in tv, radio, journalism,art, media, music, film, marketing and sales would never have suggested that I would wind up being concerned about gourmet food in the slighest. As usual, once I did the basic research, I discovered there was a story to be told.